Rear & Side Extensions
Pitched or flat, tied into the existing roof or abutting a wall. The most common new roof we install across Frimley.
New Roof Installations In Frimley
New Roof Installations In Frimley
A roof on something newly built is a different job to replacing an old one. It must meet current regulations, and it has to marry into the existing house convincingly.
A Different Job
New Build Roofing Versus Re-Roofing
Replacing a roof means reinstating something that already worked. Installing a new one means building something that has never existed, on a structure that is itself brand new, against a house that has been quietly settling since the sixties.
That junction is where the skill lies. A new extension roof has to be tied into the existing roof or wall so the two behave as a single building, with leadwork designed to absorb differential movement rather than fight it. Get it wrong and the leak appears at the join within a couple of winters — exactly where it is most disruptive to put right.
On Frimley’s estate housing there is a specific opportunity worth knowing about. If your existing roof is already close to needing replacement, and you are extending anyway, doing both together is considerably cheaper than doing them two years apart. The scaffold is up once, the access is paid for once, and the whole roof ends up matching.
There is also more regulation involved than most homeowners expect. New roofs must satisfy current standards for insulation, ventilation and structure — not those in force when the house was built — and that affects build-up depth, ridge height and occasionally the design itself.
What We Roof
New Structures We Install Roofs On
If it is newly built and needs covering, it is likely something we take on.
Loft Conversions
Working with your conversion specialist on dormers, rooflights and the alterations to the main roof the conversion requires.
Dormers
Cheeks, roof and the flashings that tie them into the main slope — the detail that determines whether a dormer stays dry.
Garages & Car Ports
Replacing a tired estate garage with a new one, or building a car port or workshop from scratch, in pitched tile or a modern flat system.
Garden Rooms & Offices
Home offices, studios and garden rooms, where insulation and ventilation matter every bit as much as on the house itself.
New Build Housing
Complete roofs on new dwellings and infill plots, from first truss through to final ridge.
Working Together
How A New Roof Installation Runs
New build work involves other trades, so sequencing and communication matter as much as the roofing.
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Drawings & Specification
We review the plans, agree covering, build-up and ventilation, and flag anything that will not work in practice before materials get ordered.
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Programming With The Build
The roof cannot go on before the structure is ready, and every trade after us waits on the building being watertight. We book realistically and hold the date.
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Weatherproofing First
Membrane, battens and covering on as quickly as possible to close the building in, so the internal trades can get started.
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Tying In & Finishing
Leadwork to abutments, flashings into the existing roof, and roofline finished so the new work reads as part of the original house.
Planning An Extension Or Conversion?
Talk to us before the drawings are finalised. Roofing input at that stage costs nothing and regularly saves money later.
What's Involved
What A New Roof Installation Covers
Everything from the membrane up, plus the junctions connecting new work to old.
- Breathable membrane, treated battens and the chosen covering
- Pitched tile, natural slate or a modern flat roof system
- All leadwork tying new work into existing roofs and walls
- Valley formation where a new pitch meets the original roof
- Dormer roofs, cheeks and their flashings
- Rooflight and lantern kerbs built and detailed in
- Fascias, soffits, guttering and downpipes on new elevations
- Eaves and ridge ventilation designed to current standards
Why Us
New Work That Looks Original
The mark of a good extension roof is that a visitor cannot tell where the old house stops.
- Coverings matched sympathetically to the existing roof
- Junctions formed in dressed lead, designed for movement
- Ventilation and insulation specified to current standards
- Realistic programming so following trades are never held up
- Direct communication with your builder or architect throughout
Common Questions
New Roof Installation Questions
What homeowners and builders ask before a new roof goes on.
Cannot see your question? We are always happy to talk it through — there is no such thing as a silly question when it comes to your roof.
Can you work alongside my builder?
Regularly, and it is how a lot of our new build work comes about. We liaise directly with the builder on sequencing and detailing so nobody is waiting on anybody, and you are not left relaying technical questions between two trades.
Should I replace the main roof at the same time?
If it is within a few years of needing it, almost certainly yes. The scaffold and access are a significant part of any roofing bill and you would be paying for them twice. You also avoid the mismatch of a bright new extension roof against a tired original one.
Will the new roof match my existing one?
That is always the aim. Where the original tile is still manufactured we use it; where it is not, we source the closest match in profile and colour. Do expect a new covering to look brighter until it has weathered a season or two.
Do I need building regulations approval?
For an extension, dormer or loft conversion, yes — the roof forms part of that application and must meet current thermal, ventilation and structural standards. We build to those requirements and provide whatever detail building control asks for.
How quickly can the building be made watertight?
It is usually everyone’s priority on site, since internal trades cannot start until it is. Once the structure is ready for us, membrane and battens go on quickly, and we prioritise closing the building in over finishing cosmetic detail.
Can you roof a garden room or home office?
Yes, and they are worth doing properly. A garden room with poor insulation or no ventilation becomes unusable — freezing in January, unbearable in July and prone to condensation. On a small building the roof build-up matters more, not less.
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